The Tuscan sun set over Florence, bathing the Stazione Leopolda in a warm glow as Todd Snyder brought his Fall/Winter 2024 collection to Pitti Uomo 105. More than just a dazzling display of menswear, it was a masterclass in evolution, subtly twisting familiar codes and breathing new life into classic Americana.
Snyder, a Midwesterner with a knack for deciphering American desires, has long walked the line between tradition and subversion. He’s the Ralph Lauren protégé who de-schlubbed J.Crew and reinvented preppy dadcore with his Liquor Store concept. At Pitti, he showed why he deserves a stage on this global menswear platform.
His show unfolded in two acts, each a testament to his ability to make the ordinary feel extraordinary. First came the Woolrich Black Label, imbued with Snyder’s signature blend of rugged outdoorsman and military aesthetic. Buffalo tartan shirts with detachable hoods, cable knits layered over aviators and regally long puffer jackets painted a picture of a man ready for adventure, be it a mid-winter mission or a stroll through the farmers’ market.
Read more: Todd Snyder to lead Woolrich’s new Black Label line as Creative director
Then came the real Todd Snyder showstopper: his eponymous label collection. It was a love letter to three distinct eras, seamlessly woven into a tapestry for the modern man. Mohair cardigans and long, tailored jackets over wide-legged jeans evoked memories of ’90s Details editorials, taking us back to a time when menswear was shaped on the shoulders of fathers. High-waisted combat trousers in luxurious silk added a touch of daring, while roomy tailoring in rich Italian herringbone and houndstooth exuded understated elegance. A Van Gogh print, courtesy of The Met, emblazoned on a camp collar shirt served as a reminder that the classics deserve fresh interpretations.
“This is my most personal and meticulous collection yet,” Snyder confessed backstage. And it showed. Each garment was imbued with a respect for the past, but pushed forward with subtle tweaks. Todd Snyder hasn’t reinvented the wheel; he’s simply made it run smoother, faster and with a lot more style.
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©Photo: Todd Snyder
