Ulla Johnson dropped jaws and defied expectations at New York Fashion Week with her Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled “Gender Play.” Inspired by Judith Butler’s “Gender Trouble,” the show transcended mere clothing, becoming a captivating exploration of identity and fluidity.
Johnson, a self-proclaimed “women’s-studies major in college,” wasn’t shy about her intellectual influences. Backstage, she declared, “Everything is a performance, gender is a performance. Everything here was a performance.” This theme resonated throughout, not just in the clothes, but in the show’s very conception. An oversized sculpture by Andrew Ondrejcak and Abby Cheney, evoking a “warm, enveloping, embryonic feeling,” served as the heart of the space, further emphasizing the themes of transformation and rebirth.
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One of the most talked-about aspects of the collection was the inclusion of male models for the first time in Johnson’s career. “Why is it taboo to see men on women’s runways?” she questioned, challenging outdated industry norms. These models weren’t merely accessories; they wore stunning pieces like a semi-sheer purple turtleneck over a matching cardigan, bottle-green wide leather pants, and an ochre wool overcoat, showcasing Johnson’s mastery of color and silhouette.
But the key takeaway wasn’t about labels. Instead, Johnson blurred the lines between traditionally “masculine” and “feminine” cuts. Think pinstripe jackets with an unfinished, almost hesitant feel, juxtaposed against opulent black velvet embroidered with white sequins, suggesting a controlled unraveling. Even paisley, a typically feminine print, took on a new life in a frenetic collaged version in shades of yellow, orange, and black.
Johnson’s love for the outdoors shone through in her collaboration with K-Way. Their signature technical nylon transformed into a poncho, jumpsuit, and a chic midi-skirt, all sporting Johnson’s blurred floral print. They exuded effortless cool, perfect for city dwellers and adventurers alike.
Read more: K-Way Fall/Winter 2024 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Ulla Johnson
