Valentino‘s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection is a groundbreaking exploration of masculinity, using the iconic symbols of men’s tailoring as a canvas for subversion and quiet revolution. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli moves away from the flamboyant to a more subtle, introspective approach that challenges traditional notions of what it means to be a man.
Gone are the days of hot pink and extravagant silhouettes. This season, Piccioli takes a different direction, opting for a muted palette of blacks, grays and navies, with the occasional pop of sky blue that dominated his Fall/Winter 2022 womenswear collection. But the real story is not in the colors, but in the reinterpretation of classic menswear staples.
The suit, often seen as a symbol of patriarchal power, is deconstructed and reimagined. Oversized blazers without buttons offer relaxed elegance, while wide-legged trousers nod to the 1940s with a contemporary twist. The key is softness, fluidity. These aren’t your father’s power suits; they’re garments designed for comfort and movement, embracing a softer, more human masculinity.
Piccioli’s secret weapon? The sophisticated techniques of haute couture. He infuses the collection with elements such as chiffon linings and rounded shapes traditionally reserved for women’s wear. This fusion of masculine and feminine is a deliberate choice that challenges the exclusivity of couture and offers men a taste of its exquisite craftsmanship and luxurious details.
Turtlenecks peek out from under shirts and ties, double lapels add a touch of grandeur, and the three-piece suit is playfully deconstructed with the waistcoat transformed into a scarf. Even the humble t-shirt gets the couture treatment, with a rounded shape that takes it to a new level of sophistication.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2024 is a statement about the evolving role of men in today’s society. Piccioli wants to move away from toxic masculinity and embrace a softer, more humane ideal. He sees his clothes as tools for men to express themselves authentically, without being constrained by outdated notions of what it means to be “masculine.’’