The music of Handel’s famous aria, “Lascia ch’io pianga“, served as a powerful inspiration for Glenn Martens, the creative director of Y/Project, as he crafted the brand’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection. The lyrics, filled with both pain and serenity, echoed through each piece of the collection.
For the first time, Martens incorporated embroidery into the collection, elevating sweatshirts and dresses with embellishments made of the same material. Majestic caftans and adaptable bombers and coats also made an appearance, lending a theatrical touch to the collection.
This theatrical spirit was infused with a touch of irony, as Martens incorporated screenshots from pornographic films into the designs, carefully printed on silk or jersey dresses, skirts, and tops. The multi-collared shirts and iron-inserted outfits, which have become staples of the Y/Project brand, also received a playful twist.
A new model of boots was also introduced, covered with leather or denim panels and featuring an adaptable shape thanks to snap buttons. The “Paris Best” print, a reference to the Y/Project denim jacket from 2013, was embroidered onto denim bags, and a similar material was imitated on a leather bag design complete with wire insertions.
Finally, the collection also featured jewelry that reproduced hand signs, serving as a symbol of unity and individuality. The show was soundtracked by a remix of 58 different interpretations of “Lascia ch’io pianga“, by Senjan Jansen, further emphasizing the power of the music that inspired the collection.