Alessandro Sartori’s latest Zegna Fall/Winter 2024 collection was an immersive journey into the heart of the brand’s Italian roots. Stepping into Milan’s darkened former fairgrounds was like entering the hallowed “sala delle mischie,” Zegna‘s cashmere blending room. Gentle flurries of vicuna-colored flakes cascaded from the ceiling, whispering mountain winds, while James Blake’s soundtrack painted the air with a stark, evocative beauty.
Sartori, a maestro of fabrics, spoke of his collection as an organic evolution, an ode to Zegna’s heritage reimagined with fresh eyes. He delved into the very fabric of the brand, pushing boundaries with innovative techniques. Side-seamed trousers offered a new take on the classic silhouette, while the loden coat, reborn as a “sandwich” of three cashmere layers, showcased Sartori’s playful approach to luxury. A quilted coat, created by sandwiching a sonic-welded duvet between cashmere, embodied this fusion of comfort and innovation.
Layering remained key, but with a newfound generosity. Shapes took on a relaxed, enveloping air, neither constricting nor shapeless. Sartori envisioned a wardrobe built on modularity, where tops, bottoms, underpinnings and accessories could be mixed and matched to create a personal canvas. Ribbed and padded sweaters shed their utilitarian skin and blossomed into outerwear, with a shaved cashmere stunner stealing the show.
Do you use Google News? You can follow your favorite media. Follow Fashionotography on Google News, by RSS or on Flipboard.
This wasn’t just urban luxury – it was a nod to the rugged charm of the great outdoors. Boxy jackets in Harris tweed and buttery leather featured oversized pockets, some angled, some tucked lower on elongated 80cm cashmere coats. Sartori’s masterful color palette, a symphony of winter whites, buttery beiges, earthy browns and greens punctuated with flashes of soft dawn pinks and violet blues, found its only counterpoint in gingham, reimagined in intarsia on a cropped blazer, macro weave textures and delicate embroidery.
Read more: Zegna and Real Madrid’s fashion forward journey in the 2023/2024 season
©Photo: Zegna
