Having initially planned to unveil its Fall/Winter 2021 men’s collection in China on March 5, Berluti finally lifted the lid on the colorful lineup inspired by the abstract paintings of Berlin-based Russian artist Lev Khesin.
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Dubbed “Living Apart Together”, the Berluti menswear Fall/Winter 2021 performative show was broadcasted simultaneously online at lunchtime in Paris via the brand’s IG live and brand’s website, and on 10 screens in front of a live audience at One on the Bund in Shanghai.
Driven to defy the constraints of our time, Artistic director Kris Van Assche collaborates with video director Antoine Asseraf and creative consultant Yoann Lemoine (aka Woodkid) on a virtual show experience devoted to the figurative act of crossing borders for Berluti.
The scenography employs the floor signage of social distancing as an illustration of the limitations brought on by the coronavirus pandemic.
The collection adapts the works of the painter Lev Khesin, whose colour and texture forms also inform techniques and fabrications. The Berlin-based Russian contemporary artist expresses himself in abstract, tactile patterns created through multiple layers and colours of silicone paint. Khesin’s aesthetic echoes that of Berluti’s own artisanal patina methods, further emphasizing the kismet creative alliance between artistic director, Kris Van Assche and the artist. Khesin’s vibrant and contrasting colors and textures are reinterpreted in the garments and accessories of the house of Berluti, creating a foundation for the collection that embodies adaptability and fluidity.
Subtly unstructured lines cut a soft and relaxed tailoring silhouette. It’s a feeling of comfort expressed in neo-suiting fusing traditional formal dress codes with those of the workwear and sportswear wardrobes, often carried out in double-face cashmere.
He’s also pushing the boundaries of Berluti’s core footwear business, updating its Ultima shoe by stacking up three soles: one made of recycled rubber, and two in leather.
The handmade Norwegian stitch on the shoes inspired the piping on outerwear and suiting. A white stitch embroidery traditionally employed in shoe-making – and which can only be achieved by hand – translates into the piping of quilted leather jackets, the trims of a leather suit, and the cushioning of a padded puffer coat. Evident details highlighting the handwork of Berluti.
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