The juxtaposition of rain and revelry set the stage for Diesel’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, orchestrated by Glenn Martens. Displaying audacity and sheer tenacity, Diesel curated an unforgettable experience, showcasing its dynamic line under the moody Milanese skies.
In a move that boldly emphasized the brand’s ethos, Diesel transformed the vast Scalo Farini rail yard, previously home to Gucci’s iconic shows, into a massive rave, welcoming a staggering crowd of 7,000 attendees. The allure wasn’t solely in the bold designs or the ambiance – it was Diesel’s commendable strategy of inclusivity, bringing together fashion enthusiasts from various walks of life. A significant portion of these tickets was first extended to Milan‘s university students, underscoring Diesel’s commitment to youth culture and fashion-forward thinking.
As models paraded down the 150-foot runway, the rain began its rhythmic descent, almost on cue with the beats of the NTS-programmed DJ line-up that had been electrifying the atmosphere for hours. The crowd’s reaction? A near-defiant celebration, with hands holding up glowing screens, capturing the fusion of water and wearables. It was a testament to both Martens’ vision and the resilience of the brand’s community.
Emphasizing the collection’s theme of participation, Diesel’s pieces brought forth an eclectic blend of artistry and urban decay. Cinema heavily influenced the designs with garments showcasing playful parodies of movie posters from classics like “Spice World” and “Batman.” These references weren’t just aesthetic but also incorporated tactile elements such as distressed and acid-washed finishes, often layered over rich jersey or shimmering lurex.
Masculine tuxedos, a nod to the duality of glamour and grunge, appeared weathered, hinting at a post-apocalyptic red carpet scenario. The women’s line bore similarly imaginative contrasts. One could observe jersey layered over sheer fabrics, giving birth to a peeling paint aesthetic, or hyper-functional pants creatively formed from draped fanny packs. The element of surprise continued with models adorned in grayish ochre mud, echoing the earthy tones of the attire they sported.
But it wasn’t all ruggedness and rain. As the last model, embodying the elegance of an Oscar statuette, graced the runway in a sophisticated black silk ensemble, the skies mysteriously cleared, as if giving a final nod of approval. The runway rave morphed into a party that went on for hours, an ode to fashion, fun, and the free spirit that Diesel so ardently embodies.
And, as the night ended and the day dawned, Diesel ensured that the festivities didn’t cease. The rail yard would open its gates to the public for consecutive days, allowing them to immerse in a curated cinematic experience, featuring films like “Mulholland Drive” and “Fight Club.”