Kim Jones didn’t wait for Paris Haute Couture Week to dazzle. He’s unveiled his first full-fledged haute couture collection for Dior Men, and it’s a stunning tribute to the legendary dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Inspired by Rudolf Nureyev’s flamboyant off-duty style and extravagant caftans, Jones paints a picture of bold masculinity on the runway.
But before the couture fireworks, Jones warms up the audience with 40 ready-to-wear pieces that feel both familiar and fresh. The brand’s signature tailoring takes center stage, with iterations of the iconic Oblique suit featuring clean lines and minimal embellishment. Roomy wool meltons and leather jackets offer effortless luxury, while Mary-Jane sneakers and a quilted satin backpack in ballet slipper pink add playful touches.
Jones winks at Nureyev’s more understated wardrobe of ribbed knits, wide belted robes and twisted turbans. But it’s the 20 couture looks that really steal the show. Meticulously crafted for a handful of VIP clients, each piece is a testament to Jones’s virtuosity and Nureyev’s flamboyant spirit.
A sweeping silver kimono, woven with jewel-like blocks of color and three months in the making, channels Nureyev’s penchant for the dramatic. A top and pants set, sparkling like the night sky, pays homage to the Debussy gown made for Margot Fonteyn, Nureyev’s iconic dance partner. Even a diamond choker makes its way down the runway, worn with a nonchalant belted denim jacket and pants.
With price tags as high as 200,000 euros, these couture creations are destined for private appointments with an elite clientele. “They love to buy things that no one else has,” said Jones, acknowledging the thrill of exclusivity. He also hints at his own contribution to the Dior archives, ensuring that these fascinating pieces leave a lasting legacy.
Jones’ decision to focus on the clothes rather than overshadow them with theatrics is commendable. While the presentation features dramatic music and a darkened venue, the spotlight remains firmly on the artistry of the garments. Movement director Les Child helps the models navigate the space with graceful ease, adding a touch of quiet choreography to the proceedings.
In the end, Dior Men Fall/Winter 2024 is a triumph. It’s a collection that redefines masculinity by pushing boundaries without sacrificing elegance. Jones masterfully blends high fashion with Nureyev’s flamboyant spirit, creating pieces that are as at home on the red carpet as they are in the pages of fashion history.