Dries Van Noten, the Antwerp maverick, unveiled his vision for Fall/Winter 2024 menswear. Titled “The Elegance of the Unexpected,” it was a masterclass in subverting sartorial norms, where familiar silhouettes danced with unconventional details, and casual met classic in an intriguing tango.
From the outset, Van Noten established the tone with elongated black tailored coats, their streamlined shapes lending an air of almost impossible height to each model. These weren’t just any coats, though. He grounded them with black, slipper-like leather shoes, a subtle rebellion against the reign of the sneaker. This seemingly minor detail whispered of a potential sea change in the menswear landscape.
And Dries Van Noten proceeded to dismantle the expectations surrounding tailoring, injecting a dose of rustic charm with shaggy scarves draped over lean suits and coats. Leather t-shirts, knitted arm-warmers, and one-sleeve sweaters peeked out from beneath, playfully disrupting the formality.
Textiles, too, underwent unexpected metamorphoses. Cargo pants, ubiquitous throughout the Fall/Winter season, materialized in luxurious suiting fabric, even forming the lower half of a velvet evening suit. Later, a casual note played as wide-legged pleated trousers danced in the form of track pant jersey. The result? Surprisingly elegant, proving that comfort and sophistication can find common ground.
Yet, amidst the experimentation, Dries Van Noten showcased his mastery of the timeless. The shawl-collared, one-button tuxedo that closed the show was a masterwork of minimalist perfection. In a season awash with long dark coats, this piece stood out as a beacon of classicism, a reminder that sometimes, the elegance of the expected is precisely what we crave.
Read more: Fear of God Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Dries Van Noten