Gabriela Hearst‘s menswear has always been a masterclass in refined elegance and quiet luxury. But for Fall/Winter 2024, the Uruguayan designer injects a dose of unexpected sensuality into her signature aesthetic, proving that the GH man can be both sophisticated and seductive.
One of the most striking elements of the collection is the glimpse of midriff revealed between a snug cable-knit sweater and the low-rise, slightly flared trousers it’s paired with. This subtle flash of skin adds a touch of casual sex appeal that’s both modern and effortlessly cool.
Hearst’s renowned obsession with textiles is on full display this season. The white and red silk velvet used for button-down shirts and the waistband of silk cady trousers is as soft against the skin as it is visually arresting. A black leather shirt, pants and car coat combo exudes understated luxury, while a bomber jacket in eco-cashmere bouclé and a hoodie in a cashmere “fur” with a deep, inviting pile offer irresistible tactile experiences.
While Gabriela Hearst acknowledges an uptick in requests for traditional black tie from male celebrities, her Fall/Winter 2024 collection is anything but conventional. Instead of predictable tuxedos and ties (which, despite their ubiquity at recent menswear shows, are absent here), she proposes a more relaxed approach to formal dressing. Think tuxedo paired with a fine cotton-jersey t-shirt and a fringed scarf in double-faced brushed cashmere – pure elegance with a touch of casual rebellion.
Hearst’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear draws inspiration from a variety of sources, from the rock star persona of Jim Morrison to the surrealist art of Leonora Carrington. This eclectic mix translates into a collection that’s full of personality and individuality. Slim silhouettes replace the boxy cuts of previous seasons, and there’s a playful embrace of gender-fluid elements, such as the aforementioned midriff-baring looks, and an overall looser, more fluid aesthetic.
Despite the collection’s undeniable glamour, Hearst remains committed to her core values of sustainability and ethical sourcing. She prides herself on using only the purest and most sustainable fabrics, often selecting the fabrics for her womenswear collection first and then using the same fabrics for the menswear. This not only ensures consistency and quality, but also minimizes waste and environmental impact.
With her Los Angeles store now open, Hearst has her sights set on Hollywood. Her relaxed, rock ‘n’ roll take on the tuxedo – a cream wool cady coat with white silk velvet lapels, paired with matching trousers and a button-down shirt – offers a fresh and distinctly American alternative to the traditional black tie look. A ruby red silk velvet shirt and matching trousers with a velvet waistband would be perfect for “Saltburn”’s rising star Barry Keoghan, while Lenny Kravitz could rock the gold leather trousers and cream shaggy cropped sweater with his signature nonchalance.
The Fall/Winter 2024 collection isn’t just about red carpet looks. There’s plenty for the creative class to wear during the day, too. A tailored recycled cotton denim suit in Hearst’s signature hourglass silhouette is both stylish and eco-conscious. Her take on the ubiquitous tech bro hoodie comes in a luxurious furry silk cashmere, and the forever classic camel coat, paired with a cashmere t-shirt and black trousers, is the epitome of laid-back elegance.
This collection is a testament to the designer’s ability to create clothes that are both stylish and desirable, while remaining true to her core values of quality, sustainability and individuality. The Gabriela Hearst man for Fall/Winter 2024 is more than just well-dressed; he’s confident, expressive, and ready to make his own mark on the world.
©Photo: Gabriela Hearst