For the Marni’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection, which was in fact an ode to the handmade, the mended, the crafted and the tailored, creative director Francesco Risso chose to plunge his audience into the dark, waiting for the show to begin.
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The setting? A huge dilapidated shed, barely lit and overgrown with vegetation. Announced by a gong, models emerged from a grassy clearing and stepped onto a raised rocky platform – each model was followed by a person wearing a balaclava, holding a flashlight to illuminate their way.
As for the proposals, the collection was about mixing the old and the new, the personal and the shared – Francesco Risso asked his collaborators, the “interpreters” as he likes to call them, to bring favorite pieces from their own wardrobes and wear them with Marni’s pieces.
“I love this mutual sharing of these objects, it creates this fragile armor. Things that are there in our wardrobe that we wear with such pride because they become the meaning of who we are. Sometimes we forget about them, but I get fascinated about how each person brought with them stories”, he said.
On the program: big coats, crumbly jackets, shrunken jackets and shredded dresses, shirts and trousers. Sweaters with thick mended and oversized twists, with sleeves dangling to the floor or full of holes. Patched patchwork coats. Everything seemed to represent a limbo state of growth and decay, along with the idea of forever’s impermanence. Finally, it was the value of repair that was celebrated in this collection. Mending, healing wounds, taking old clothes and making new ones, and thus moving forward, and starting over.
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