The crisp January air in Paris was a vibrant mix of warmth and rebellion as Paul Smith unveiled his Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection, aptly titled “Timeless Rebellion“. It’s a masterful blend of classic British tailoring with unexpected fabrics, bold colors and a touch of punk irreverence – everything a modern, style-conscious gentleman could want.
At the heart of the collection is Smith’s unwavering belief in wearable fashion. “People want clothes that work,” he explains, and his pieces deliver. Tailored blazers, reminiscent of 20th-century English suiting, are reimagined with relaxed fits and playful details like inverted pleats and belted backs. Double-pleated trousers add a touch of formality, while utilitarian despatch rider jackets, reinterpreted in vibrant purples and greens, add a contemporary edge.
The color palette is inspired by the contrasting aesthetics of Yves Saint Laurent‘s Parisian and Moroccan homes. Earthy hues such as aubergine, moss green, chartreuse and olive evoke a grounded richness that evokes the earthy tones of nature. These are masterfully incorporated into tone-on-tone suits with contrasting linings, fuzzy sweaters with abstract patterns and nubby textured scarves.
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The pièce de résistance of the collection is the captivating “Photogram” print. Blending Art Deco wallpaper motifs with early photographic experiments like cyanotypes and Man Ray’s Rayographs, this mottled, muted pattern adds depth and visual intrigue to tailored jackets and coats.
But Paul Smith isn’t afraid to juxtapose the traditional with the unconventional. British gabardine, cavalry twill and heavy tailoring flannel meet grungy mohair, over-dyed denim in acidic hues and bleached military surplus cotton. This unexpected mix underscores the collection’s core theme: honoring heritage while embracing individuality.
Outerwear takes on a rural influence with jackets inspired by classic country walking coats. For a modern twist, these jackets are paired with matching fatigue-style trousers, creating a statement set that’s both practical and stylish.
Pushing boundaries even further, Paul Smith’s runway show featured not only male models, but also a select few female models impeccably styled in a mix of menswear and womenswear. This gender-fluid approach reflects the designer’s inclusive philosophy and his belief that fashion should be a tool for self-expression, free from traditional norms.
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©Photo: Paul Smith
