As the opening chords of Nine Inch Nails’ provocative anthem, “I Want To Fuck You Like An Animal“, began to vibrate through the room, the Prada Spring/Summer 2024 collection launched itself into the annals of fashion history. Mere moments into the show, the audience gasped collectively as a unique spectacle unfolded before their eyes. Amidst the urban grunge aesthetics of the industrial steel mesh runway, the third model paraded in a white shirt adorned with fringes and black schoolboy shorts. And then, an uncanny event occurred: green slime, reminiscent of scenes from Ghostbusters or Alien, descended from the ceiling, leaving gleaming trails on either side of the catwalk before pooling and disappearing.
When questioned later, Mrs. Prada explained this surreal moment as a reintroduction of “fantasy” into the fashion world, a conscious decision to infuse their men’s spring collection with dreamlike eccentricity. Collaborating with Raf Simons, the duo set out to reflect the dichotomy between the rigid runway mesh and the viscous, shimmering plasma. Their vision materialized in tailored silhouettes featuring broad shoulders, cinched waists, and elongated jacket skirts, paired with high-waisted bottoms that billowed from the naval down.
Raf Simons confessed the silhouette was inspired by the grand tailoring tradition of the 1940s, but with a Prada-twist. Traditional heavy wools were replaced with ultralight modern alternatives, creating an outer garment as comfortable and free as a lightweight poplin shirt. He expressed the vision behind the collection: “When we think about the body, we also think about the idea of the inside and the outside, about the way a body is not still”. Artists such as H.R. Giger, creator of the Alien, and Joseph Beuys, who showcased his rabbit felt suit, were significant inspirations.
From this ethereal beginning, the collection sprouted other elements. Evolutionary derivatives of Prada’s iconic Hawaiian shirts, traditional shirts grown into full-length coats, and multi-pocket work gilets paired with constrictive-free denim jeans, all painted the collection’s rich narrative. Unexpected pops of furry tufts peered through navy fine-gauge knit shirting, adding a layer of whimsy.
The color palette gradually softened from stark black to blush tones, giving birth to sailing parkas crafted from technical nylon and weathered leather. As the show drew to a close, pockets and painted resin flowers coexisted on shirts in blush and pale coffee brown, epitomizing Prada’s cerebral aesthetic.
This collection, filled with sexual undertones, marked a return to a more masculine sexuality, resonating with the themes unveiled at Dsquared2 and Dolce & Gabbana this season. The Prada Spring/Summer 2024 collection, a testament to fashion as an art form, remains indelibly etched in the memory of all who witnessed its awe-inspiring display. The renewed focus on masculine sexuality, diversity, and the unapologetic celebration of the body, signaled a bold new direction for the fashion house, captivating spectators and critics alike.
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