S.S.Daley‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, presented at Pitti Uomo 105, was a delightful blend of British heritage and playful twists. Known for his subversive approach to classic tailoring, Steven Stokey-Daley took inspiration from the codes of British upper-class boys’ school culture, adding a touch of quirkiness and subversion.
The collection opened with a model wearing a tailcoat, shirt and no trousers, evoking the hedonistic party culture of Oxford in the 1980s. This was followed by a series of looks that explored the idea of communal living in boarding schools, with models wearing underwear, pyjamas, sportswear and boys in tailcoats.
Stokey-Daley also referenced an Oxford student’s diary from 1935, using stacks of pillows as a conceptual set to represent Eliot’s room. A giant quilted duvet coverlet with piping and a pair of giant “tapestry” knit blanket ponchos riffed on the idea of rolling out of bed wrapped in one’s bedclothes.
The designer’s love of E.M. Forster was evident in the collection, with an iconic oversized fish print appearing on a shirt, possibly inspired by Forster’s short story “The Last Panic.” A large yellow oilskin jacket and sou’wester further emphasized the nautical references.
Throughout the collection, Stokey-Daley’s signature playful sweaters made an appearance, this season with frolicking lambs and a bunny inspired by children’s sleepwear. He also showed a continuation of his signature Oxford bags, casual chore suits, and (now) Made-in-Italy tailoring and shoes.
Despite his penchant for references and storytelling, Stokey-Daley’s clothes are never just costumes. They are inherently British, but with a twist that sets them apart from the generic classic. His genius for playful sweaters, his signature Oxford bags, and his ability to elevate casual wear with tailoring and shoes all contribute to his distinctive aesthetic.
At just 27, Stokey-Daley has already established himself as a leading voice in menswear. His Fall/Winter 2024 collection was a testament to his creativity, innovation and ability to reinterpret British traditions in a fresh and modern way.