Drenched in summer’s heat, amidst the prestigious setting of the Sorbonne’s green courtyard, Sacai unleashed its dynamic Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Chitose Abe, the maestro behind the eponymous brand, delivered an artful concoction of men’s and women’s attire that sizzled with inspiration drawn from her school days, engaging us in a nostalgic journey of revisited youth and innocence. As the rays of the afternoon sun heated the atmosphere to a simmering 95 degrees, the anticipation for a show that was as evocative as it was timely bubbled among the audience.
Amid the simmering weather, Chitose Abe presented a collection filled with resplendent bursts of primary colors, giving voice to an overarching feeling of positivity that permeated the collection. The designer’s school-time memories were skillfully translated into the clothing, evoking the do-it-yourself spirit she employed to jazz up her school uniform. Bold patchwork, asymmetrical hemlines, and her ingenious splicing technique, hallmark traits of Sacai, formed the backbone of this playful collection.
One can’t help but admire the designer’s masterful juxtaposition of sturdy Carhartt denim and pin-striped wool to create hybrid suits that bespoke of innovative thinking and a keen eye for detail. They featured patch pockets and contrasting linings on the collar, elevating the pieces to a whole new dimension of style. Even more captivating was a deep blue jacket and shorts combo, adorned with tone-on-tone patches. The childlike doodles of stars, leaves, and the brand name “Sacai” written in exaggerated, sloping letters, seemed like an artful tribute to the joys of childhood.
Abe’s unique touch extended to the t-shirts and sweaters, which bore swirly patterns either printed or sewn onto them, while vibrant, puka shell-like necklaces hung from almost every ensemble, reminiscent of the pop beads children use for crafting their first piece of jewelry.
But Abe’s magic didn’t stop there; the designer stirred up more conventional uniform dressing with a touch of her signature whimsy. Take, for instance, the boxy, fly-front shirt she paired with wide-leg trousers and a matching khaki trench. And not to forget, a delightful little black dress with a white collar, its long fluttering sleeves waving like flags of fashion liberation, offering the audience a momentary respite from the scorching summer heat.
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