Calling back to the brand’s Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection, Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture show opened with brand ambassador and former competitive rider Charlotte Casiraghi riding down the runway on horseback, on the set designed by the contemporary artist Xavier Veilhan and with the performed live by French musician Sebastien Tellier on the background.
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The decor, that referenced to the avant-gardes of the 1920s and 1930s, was part landscape, part garden and part open theater stage, and it integrated both the catwalk and seating reserved for spectators.
In past seasons, Virginie Viard relied heavily on punk inspirations. This year, the designer clung to the feathers and the fringe of the ‘20s and to the feminine side of the Constructivists.
Viard infused Chanel’s traditional elements with new silhouettes and details, channeling silhouettes and fabrics of the 20s and 30s. Tweed suits were accented with feathers and sequins and eveningwear was deconstructed and featured mesh paneling. The collection featured a number of ensembles that grabbed the audience’s attention for their amalgamation of fragile and rigid, demure and sexy.
A silk and chiffon wedding gown with jeweled detailing on the straps and neckline was the collection’s final look, contrasting with the show’s opening look, a black tweed jacket with jeweled buttons. Both demonstrated the two ends of a spectrum the Viard toiled between throughout the collection.
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