For Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2021 Co-Ed collection, John Galliano pulled the curtain back on the creative process of the fashion house’s atelier teams through a short film.
In this second and final instalment of S.W.A.L.K. captured by Nick Knight, adapting for ready-to-wear the themes Galliano initiated in part one, his Artisanal collection in July, Galliano demonstrated how techniques developed in the Artisanal collection could be artistically industrialized for ready-to-wear.
The film and the new line revolved around the theme of connectivity and the reliance of one person on another. ‘’Maison Margiela interprets this concord through the tango’’, stated the show notes.
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‘’Observing the valour of the tango, heroic cutting is expressed in chivalrous tailoring silhouettes founded in the idea of anonymity of the lining. Formal jackets are slashed open and imbued with dancing frills bursting out from within their layers. Muslin and tulle dresses created with circular cutting evoke the effect of wet look, a technique reminiscent of wet-drapery, further evolved into knitwear and interpreted in illusionary motifs on tailoring. Prints with a purpose created in the image of humble tape – derived from Artisanal embroideries – invoke movement. Jackets constructed in a millefeuille of fabrics carry the trace of time of their layers’’.
Modeled on tango dancers, the collection was designed to allow for movements. Galliano also nodded to the Neoclassical tradition of the veiled marble sculpture with muslin and tulle dresses created with a circular cutting technique to give them a wet draping look. Galliano also brought back ‘’Recicla’’, a concept he introduced in the brand’s Fall/Winter 2020 ready-to-wear collection, re-working and repurposing actual vintage pieces into new, one-of-a-kind items.
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